Where to stay on the way to the South of France
Driving from Calais to the South of France is an utter joy. There are literally dozens of beautiful, quirky, unique and beautiful places one can choose from…one really can enjoy ‘the journey, not just the destination’.
Unsurprisingly, one of the most common questions I am asked by my little circle of chums is, “Where do you recommend to stay on the way to the South of France?”.
Living in the Cotswolds, I have around a three hour drive to Folkestone, where I hop into the tunnel. I try and make the rural bliss of Burgundy that evening….a) its over half way and b) there are some great places to discover there!
Today, I want to share two places that I have stayed in so far this year (its 2022!). I have found them to be just perfect for breaking up the journey and I hope you find them useful too.
First up…is a very sweet little town called Arc-en-Barrois. Its only a 10-15 drive off the motorway and about an hour north of Dijon. It’s 4.5 hours from Calais. In fact, it is perfect for the journey where you have not left at the crack of dawn…. I came across it on my most recent trip, earlier this month (May). I had a leisurely start from Cirencester, came out of the tunnel around 2pm and so the 4.5 hours to this place was just perfect.
Right in the market place square is the ‘Hotel Restaurant Le Parc’. It only has two stars but really is a lovely little place. I arrived around 8pm, checked in, had a quick snifter at the bar and was tucking into a very fine bœuf à la Bourguignonne by 8.30pm. Their little bistro within the building was spot on, great choice of local wines and the breakfast served the following morning was all one could need. There is a little petrol station just round the corner, so one can re-fuel before hitting the road again…and 15 mins later the thundering motorway calls your name once more.
I had a delightful walk around the town that evening after polishing off a crème brulée; there is so much to see and admire. It was beautifully peaceful and quiet, not a soul out and about. This place really is somewhere you would just never know exists - but an absolute delight and joyous place it is. Arc-en-Barrois, I look forward to seeing you again soon.
Next up…is for those that very wisely left Calais a few hours earlier than me…as its 30 mins south of Dijon. The little hamlet village of Vougeot lays nestled amongst some of the magnificent vines of Burgundy. There is a very famous vineyard there - “Clos de Vougeot”, which surrounds the 12th century Cistercian Abbey that towers over the acres around it. You cannot miss it - and it is well worth a visit the next morning after you awake from a peaceful slumber.
I stay at the charming Hotel de Vougeot and have been going there for a number of years now. Its very basic and small but very clean, safe and perfectly positioned for an enchanting nights stop over en route to the South. Some of the rooms overlook the owners little vineyard and towards the much grander Clos de Vougeot vines just beyond. The owner sells his wine from the hotel and it is one of the reasons I keep returning - it is AMAZING!! It is around 9 euros a bottle and absolutely yummy. In fact, feel free to grab me a case if you have room in your boot!
The little village (or hamlet really I suppose) has a few small shops, a little bistro which serves a pleasing supper and excellent local wine and it is just divine staying in the heart of beautiful Burgundy.
So… I hope these two humble suggestions are of some help… I wish I had known about them a few years back, as it really is so easy to hop off the never ending autoroute, wind ones way through beautiful countryside and in just a few miles find somewhere unique and authentically French to stay, eat and sleep - and have an adventure! Enjoy…and do let me know how you get on!
